Young advocates for elevation of Lihing - Grub & Vine Restobar, Foh Sang, Luyang by Lorena Binisol

Cousins Jordan Chin (35), Darryl Laurance Goh (32), and his brother Nathaniel (27) are young aspiring advocates of culture who have found a unique way to celebrate their heritage.

They have taken Lihing, the traditional Kadazan rice wine, and begun elevating it into modern experiences, blending tradition with innovation.

Their grandmother, Mary Mojikon (85) from Penampang, is the matriarch behind this legacy. Fondly known in her community as ‘Aunty Mi’, she continues to produce and preserve the drink so that her grandchildren will never forget their roots.

Jordan recalls how she often reminded them to always remember where they came from, advice that inspired the cousins to embrace Lihing not only as a drink but also as a symbol of identity and continuity.

They have introduced it into their restaurant, Grub & Vine, as part of their heritage, sharing it with guests of different ethnicities and even international visitors.

Beyond its traditional form, they have experimented with using Lihing in cooking, marinating chicken, enhancing soups, steaming and stir-frying dishes and they look forward to many more food experiential activities with Lihing.

In doing so, they have transformed it into a versatile ingredient that speaks to both tradition and modern taste.

Jordan, who has a culinary background and has worked overseas, brings with him knowledge and skills that equipped him with the experience needed for food pairing with drinks. His emphasis has always been on pairing Lihing with local traditional native food such as losun vegetables, bambangan, and tuhau.

Guests who visit their space in the Little Chinatown-like area of Foh Sang, Luyang, are not only given the chance to taste Lihing but also to experience the cultural depth behind it.

Darryl’s responsibility is to spark the imagination of guests, transporting them into the wilderness of yesteryears to show how Lihing was derived.

In his presentation, he shares the story of Huminodun, a revered figure in Kadazan mythology. Known as the “Transferred Sacrifice,” Huminodun gave her body to restore fertility to the land during a time of famine. From her sacrifice, rice grew abundantly, livestock thrived, and drought ended.

He explained, it is in her honour that Lihing is made, not merely as a drink but as a sacred tribute to her gift of sustenance, and was also the symbol of sacrifice, loyalty, selflessness, and cultural pride.

“Her sacrifice also gave rise to the Kaamatan Festival, celebrated every May, where Lihing flows freely throughout the month, much like Oktoberfest in Germany,” shared Darryl.

Guests come to understand that traditionally, Lihing is made from fermented glutinous rice with yeast, using either white rice or the distinctive red beras bukit known as vagas tadong. It is often presented during weddings and celebrations, accompanied by wishes of love, luck, happiness, and prosperity.

A guest from Germany, Michael Fleischer, after witnessing the making of Lihing, remarked that the process bore similarities to how Germans prepare their homemade wine.

Meanwhile, Nathaneal’s expertise is on bar tending, so he had experimented with Lihing in cocktails, creating several unique recipes that highlight its versatility.

By blending the traditional rice wine with modern mixology, they have introduced new ways for people to enjoy Lihing, whether as a refreshing aperitif, a creative pairing with local dishes, or a signature drink that carries the essence of Kadazan heritage into contemporary dining.

One of the creations transforms Lihing into a dessert: shaved ice with a squeeze of lime, served either as an aperitif or a refreshing treat.

Towards the end of the introduction, or the journey into the story of Lihing, guests are gradually guided into a tasting experience where the rice wine takes centre stage.

It is first served as an appetizer, then incorporated into soup, and finally sprinkled over rice to enrich its flavour. The entire culinary journey revolves around Lihing, seamlessly weaving it into both food and beverage.

For Jordan, Darryl, and Nathaniel, elevating Lihing is not simply about taste or novelty. It is about honouring their grandmother’s wisdom, preserving the memory of Huminodun’s sacrifice, and ensuring that this cultural heritage continues to thrive in modern Sabah.

In their hands, Lihing has become both a drink and a story, a living tradition passed down through generations and now finding new life in the present. To them, it is far more than a beverage; it stands as a cultural marker, a reminder of the Kadazan way of life, and a bridge that connects the past with the future.